SCMS - Induction Motor - Review

[TP1]

Hi all,

I took the plunge and bought the Trade Tools Direct 10" SCMS with induction motor. The price was $418 plus $39 delivery from Queensland to Perth. I have to say that the service was excellent. I placed the order on a Friday and it was delivered to my home in Perth the following Wednesday.

This is the machine:

http://www.tradetoolsdirect.com/Catalogue/ProductView.aspx?ProductCode=GP255S

It is the same as this one sold in the UK:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=32404&name=mitre+saw&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=44

The saw itself has some quirks- as I expected it would be given that it has a heavy induction motor. However the first thing that struck me when I unpacked it was the superb build quality with hardly any plastic being used. I was positively beaming at this stage.

I set it up and made a few test cuts and made the following observations:

The machine is Q-U-I-E-T. So quiet in fact that I have had no qualms firing it up late at night - it is that good. The quietness comes from the direct drive induction motor that is far less noisy than brushed universal screamers, and the absence of a gearbox which create their own mechanical noise.

The cuts were very accurate and there are fine adjustments available to ensure complete accuracy at all angles.Using the standard 40 T blade cits were very smooth indeed .

The motor spins the blade at 3500 RPM which may not be as fast as some, but the sheer grunt of the induction motor keeps the revs up and ensured beautiful results. It cut through Jarrah with consumate ease and the silky smooth slide mechanism added to the feeling of quality and effortlessness.

The motor is braked and comes to a complete stop within a couple of seconds of releasing the power switch.

OK now for the limitations

1. depth of cut - 60 mm could be limiting for some. However the length of cut at 300 MM is pretty good.

2. The saw tilts one way only. Again I am perfectly OK with this but if I was a roofing carpenter for example, this would be a limitation.

3. This isn't necessarily a limitation but you need to make a couple of cuts to adjust to the balance of the machine with its heavy induction motor.

There you have it, so far so good for me, and i hope you have a better understanding of how this saw performs.

[Optimark]

I have never heard of this unit and I have never heard of this business before your review.

I'm assuming you mean the GP255S unit?

Any chance of a picture of the handle side?

The short product review offered did not show the handle side either, is there something wrong with that side?

One interesting thing their review mentioned as bad, was that there was no brake. I'm assuming that the unit you have is different, or am I reading this incorrectly?

Many thanks for the review.

Mick.

[Optimark]

I see you changed your review by the addition of a link, great.

Mick.

[TP1]

I have never heard of this unit and I have never heard of this business before your review.

I'm assuming you mean the GP255S unit?

Any chance of a picture of the handle side?

The short product review offered did not show the handle side either, is there something wrong with that side?

One interesting thing their review mentioned as bad, was that there was no brake. I'm assuming that the unit you have is different, or am I reading this incorrectly?

Many thanks for the review.

Mick.

I will post pictures tomorrow.

The machine does have a good brake and looks identical to the Axminster unit. Timbecon have a machine as well but they were quite a bit more expensive. Also I don't think theirs was as well featured, but i would have to go in and have a good look to be certain.

[TP1]

I have attached some photos below

1. Firstly The motor/ Handle side as requested from two viewpoints

2. The saw extended

3. Mitre cut - I used a roughish piece of wood to test the accuracy of the Mitre angles out of the box. The pieces are just resting together but line up perfectly.

With more use I have found that the machine should be bolted down for best results. It doesn't have its feet spaced a long way apart and its balance is not as good as say a Hitachi or Makita, particularly with a heavy motor up high. Bolting to a table or mitre stand works very well indeed.

[Optimark]

Many thanks for the reply and the pictures.

It would seem that this will do the job nicely for the intended purpose I have. Plus the price is quite good.

Mick.

[TP1]

You're welcome Mick. Since becoming more familiar with it, I have fine tuned the alignment ( easy) and get dead accurate cuts each time.

I think it is so much better quality than others around that price range - metal construction with a heavy duty motor that should outlast the competition.

I was cutting a fair bit of timber today and was quite comfortable operating it without my usual hearing protection.

I am now used to the "unique" feel of this machine and the thing I would like to see improved is the dust extraction. I understand that all mitre saws are lousy at that, except the Festool, so I'm content for now.

If you do get one let us know how you get on with it.

Regards,

[TP1]

A quick update after using the saw a while longer

1. Dust problem solved!

I changed the standard blade for an Irwin 80 Tooth blade and now almost all of the sawdust gets directed to the vac chute mounted in the rear housing. I can now use it in the workshop without having to clean up after. I didn't realise a blade change would make that much difference to the sawdust collection.

2. I am now accustomed to the balance and really love using it. The mass of the induction motor and the smooth gliding rails really helps the way it feels.(IMO). After the initial setup, its bang on accurate each and every time. All metal construction and strong detents help to keep it that way.

[unicorn]

Hi, that saw is a remake of the Elektra Beckum; I have one that's about 20 years old, haven't managed to do any damage to it; floating floors, picture frames, house framing...
Time proven design, good to see it reborn!
PS: wanna swap?:D

[jatt]

Hi, that saw is a remake of the Elektra Beckum

Yep got the Elektra Beckum as well. (KGS 301). Nice and quiet with the supplied blade, very good cut. The 18T I put on was a different story tho.

I assume you have to put a peice of rod thru the motor casing to stop saw rotation when blade changing.

What is the hole size of the blade. The EB is an unusual size (30 mm).

Good purchase, the neighbours will think so too.

[TP1]

Yep got the Elektra Beckum as well. (KGS 301). Nice and quiet with the supplied blade, very good cut. The 18T I put on was a different story tho.

I assume you have to put a peice of rod thru the motor casing to stop saw rotation when blade changing.

What is the hole size of the blade. The EB is an unusual size (30 mm).

Good purchase, the neighbours will think so too.


The blade hole size is 30 mm. The machine looks and feels that it is better quality than anything in its price range - they have done a very good copy job.

In terms of changing blades, they have simplified the process. 2 tools are supplied , one which holds the flange in place while the other is used to remove the securing bolt. In fact the latter can be removed with either a hex key or spanner. All in all it makes for very quick and easy blade changes.

[unicorn]

Yes, it is 30 m/m, but for me it is lucky, since my Carbatec bench saw uses exactly the same blades, I don't have to duplicate!. I have an alluminium cutting, and up to 100tpi blades, that I can swap as needed:2tsup:.Yes, to change blades I have a looong 5 m/m allen key(you'll find it jams into the cooling fins, you"ll never lose it that way)
Enjoy a well designed machine!

[TP1]

Hey, I was in "Beyond Tools" today and they have the same saw as Metabo. It is the first time I saw the "original" and it is uncanny how faithful to the design my 'copy' is.

[Wooden Mechanic]

Thanks for the review!

If the motor is anything like the brushless motors you find on R/C cars or planes (obviously larger) it will last forever!

Harlan

[Mr Brush]

TP1 - thanks for the excellent review. Wasn't even aware of this saw, and didn't know that they could be had with induction motors.

I have a huge job ahead this summer doing garden edging (4 x 1" H4 pine). much of which will need to be notched to make the curves. At this price, I'm very tempted by this saw.

Since I can't get to see one anywhere before buying, I have one question for you. I'll need to set the saw for a partial cut (top half inch of a 1 inch board) - does this saw have some kind of depth cut stop, and if so how easy is is to use? To be honest, I've always found the depth stops on Makita saws to be a bit clunky, so as long as your saw has this feature in some form or other I'll be fine. :2tsup:

Cheers.

[unicorn]

Hi, there, the old Elektra Beckum has a very simple depth stop, just a bolt and locknut; if they kept that detail in the newer version, you shouldn't have any problems.
You may even rig up a packer you can drop in place(those new scary magnets look ideal) so your standard depth doesn't change.
Cheers, Raul
Since posting this, I have double checked, and the information is incorrect; if you pack out the depth stop, the slide bars ride out of horizontal, so the blade rides up as it travels!!
Back to the drawing board, then!

[TP1]

Hi Mr Brush,

Unicorn is right, my machine is very faithful to the Elektra Beckum/ Metabo design and the depth stop is only really useful for through cut settings.

Pity though. The machine is capable of delivering very accurate cuts. Micro-calibration is dead easy and I used a digital angle thingy to adjust 90 and 45 degree angles on both the vertical and horizontal axis to an accuracy level of 90.00 and 45.00 respectively. I removed the blade guard to get an angle for the greater blade surface ( what can I say, its a hobby!)

I have since built a mobile stand for it which greatly increases the versatility in and outside the workshop: See pic below



I thought I should also clear up previous posts about the dust collection. The machine, like the originals, have dust extraction at the rear of the frame, and not on the blade guard. With a decent cross cut blade, most dust gets trapped when using it as a drop saw with little mess being left. However when sliding, the extraction port is too gar away for efficient dust gathering. I have heard that most sliding machines, with the exception o the Festool, are pretty tardy in this area, but for the sake of completeness I thought I should point it out.

[Peter Benders]

i liked the review. its short and very informative. the links were good and had all the information needed. i agree with wood. if it is like the brush less motors it will have a long life