Using Danish oil to finish benchtops?

[Goldy]

Just curious why they dont recommend using Danish Oil to finish bench tops? I made a coffee table out of Red Gum and have spilt coke, beer, wine, coffee, food, you name it. 5 years on and there isnt one stain or cup etc ring and still looks like it was finished yesturday. A simple wipe now and then with a dam cloth to clean it is the only attention it has been given.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

It depends.

If you bought your "Danish Oil" from somewhere like Bunnings, chances are good that it's not a true DO but actually just a PolyU with, maybe, a teaspoon of Tung Oil waved over the top.

Whether you've used a DO or PolyU, neither are particularly damaged by normal household spillage - unless you regularly decant acetone & other strong solvents, etc. in your kithen. :U

I think that one of the main reasons a DO isn't used on benchtops is because of hot spots. All oil finishes are prone to marking if hot items are placed on them. eg. rings from coffee cups, etc. Not as bad as shellac, but the marks are still noticable.

One advantage of DO, is that if it does become scratched/marked it can be lightly sanded and simply recoated to effect a seamless repair.

[Tex B]

Agree with Skew, as usual. Good danish oil makes a great finish for coffee tables and other high traffic furniture. Very good moisture barrier, and as you say, easy to clean.

Normally when the manufacturers talk of bench tops, they refer to kitchen counters, which need something that can handle heat better.

Tex

[Goldy]

The Danish Oil I always use is Organoil Danish Oil. If you read the Procedural Data sheet high lights not for bench tops etc, they must just be covering them selfs.


http://www.organoil.com.au/danishoil/index.html


It isnt cheep but what you pay for is what you get.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

That's the real McCoy. :2tsup:

As Tex said, by benchtops they mean kitchen counters. Not recommended for use where hot saucepans, etc. may be sat directly on top.

[Fencepost2]

I've had 4 coats of DO on a kitchen table and coffee tables for 5 years plus and they still don't need another coat. Take hot mugs of tea and coffee etc without leaving any marks. (Cabots was the brand).

[rsser]

Rustins is my finish of choice for turnings like fruit bowls and platters but it's not partic. durable. Some fruits emit something other than aromas; one stain went through the finish and into the wood. I had to remount that and clean it up but then went for FW Scandinavian Oil which seems to have a higher proportion of resins and I think is standing up better.

[rrobor]

White rings on furniture when hot thing are placed on them is due to moisture being drawn up in the wood and not being able to escape through the finish. So its not easy to know how dry your wood was before you sealed the top. PolyU seals the surface of the wood, it may look good but it yellows with age and will in the end suffocate the wood. Use poly and your best piece of work wont ever last to be the heirloom antique. Be fine though for your innings.

[Lumnock]

Rustins is my finish of choice for turnings like fruit bowls and platters but it's not partic. durable. Some fruits emit something other than aromas; one stain went through the finish and into the wood. I had to remount that and clean it up but then went for FW Scandinavian Oil which seems to have a higher proportion of resins and I think is standing up better.

When I attended a woodcare course hosted by Orica (makers of Cabots & FW), the trainer there told me he is pretty sure there is little to no difference at all between Cabots Danish Oil and FW Danish Oil.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

As I said earlier, there are Danish Oils and there are... what are marketed as Danish Oils.

Rustin's & Organoil are, AFAIK, relatively faithful to the original concept in that Tung Oil is the main constituent.

Going by their MSDS sheets, all the others I've tried are primarily PolyU based, although maybe with a hint of Tung.

[tea lady]

I've used Organoil Hard Burnishing Oil on the bench around our stove top. (That's the only bit of bench I've made so far.:D Working up to doing the rest to match.) It IS recomended for kitchen benches (I think.:C ) Anyway, its great. Don't know about long term cos its only been there a couple of months, but I've put pots down on it with no ill effects I can see. And its so easy to clean cooking oil spots off. :cool:

[Goldy]

What are the best Danish Oils on the market that are true to there name?

[Tex B]

I use a mixture devised by Sam Maloof. 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 gloss polyurethane. Works well for me, and at least I know what's in it.

Tex

[rsser]

DO is really a category not a formula as Skew pointed out.

This is my experience:

Organoil DO - dries flat, can raise the grain, doesn't go off in the can.
Rustins DO - depending on the timber but usually builds to a nice satin finish (which can be buffed or waxed for a higher lustre); does a good job of popping the grain on figured timbers.
FW Scandinavian Oil - builds to a higher lustre than Rustins (too much for my taste); it's somewhat opaque in the can.

Oils of course darken timber, sometimes too much. You can reduce this by reducing the build by using a sealer like blonde Shellac or nitrocellulose sanding sealer.

[Mr Brush]

rsser - I've read good things elsewhere about the Rustins DO, want to give it a go on a coffee table project.....but where do you buy the stuff??? My local Bunnies stocks most finishes, but no sign of the Rustins stuff.

Do any of the larger chain stores stock it, or does it have to be purchased from specialty suppliers?

Cheers

[rsser]

You can still get it by mail order I think. Jim Carroll or the Woodsmith. Up your way Woodworks might stock it or Trend.

Just to add to my comments above: in none of these cases was wet-sanding involved. For someone doing kitchen benches or coffee tables this is worth looking into, for grain filling and getting a nice silky feel - but I speak only from a temp period of wet sanding turnings and then only with Hard Burnishing Oil.

[Goldy]

Heres a link to the table I made many years ago, has held out well and still looks like it was treated yesterday.

http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=8386

[rsser]

Just an afterthought .... Rustins is designed as a low-sheen finish. You can lift it a bit by buffing after it dries, and I'd guess that if you wet-sanded the first coat you might get a higher sheen as well.

So if you like a glossy finish look at something else. I use the FW Scandinavian on turnings when I do but there are other oil products discussed extensively too on this sub-forum.

From memory there are instructions on the use of Rustins on Jim Carroll's website.

[Mr Brush]

Thanks for the supplier details - I'm due an excursion to Trend in the next few weeks, so I'll see if they have any.

The low sheen finish is exactly what I am after, having found some other brands of DO (like FW) too glossy for my liking. I gather that the Rustins is a fairly thin product as well, i.e. it penetrates well into the timber, and it is easy to remove the excess without leaving streaks. Exactly what you would expect for a predominantly tung oil mix.

[Lumnock]

Does anyone have any experience with the Wattyl Professional Scandinavian Teak Oil at all, and how the finish on it is compared to other brands?

[fringe_dweller]

Thanks for the supplier details - I'm due an excursion to Trend in the next few weeks, so I'll see if they have any.


Trend carry the Organoil, didn't notice any other while I was there.

Grant